The Modern moment

6/14/2012, 1:38 p.m.

For our second course, we had the sturgeon and sauerkraut tart with American caviar mousseline and applewood smoke, and veal sweetbread and mushroom ravioli. I don't remember taking a bite of his tart because I was elbow deep in my dish. The strong umami flavor of mushrooms and delicate sweetbreads scratched that once-a-year itch.

If all of the service and attention was not enough until that point, our main course was plated from a cart topped with flame-fueled gold heating surfaces and a small army of staff holding clean copper pots containing each dish's elements. He had a gorgeous rack of lamb with olives, fines herbs, fava bean-bacon fondue and crisp spring onion. It was a man meal for the ages. Cooked perfectly!

I had slow-roasted Maine lobster with spring vegetables and a wicked butter sauce. Ironically for me, the star of my dish was served on the side. It was the lobster claw served two ways. One claw was sliced lengthwise and topped with custard, which was topped with a thin sugar tuille cookie, like the crust of a creme brlee, and finished with the other claw served as a fritter on top. Salty, sweet, crunchy, smooth, hot and cold--that could be a dish of its own.

While we waited for dessert to arrive, I was taken with the artisanal cheese cart floating by. If I could just stay for a couple more hours, I would have some room in my stomach for it, but my dessert of chocolate palette with salted butter-caramel ice cream called it a couple of chocolates from the handmade chocolates cart and a birthday gift from the pastry chef too.

I got exactly what I needed and being in the moment meant I could appreciate all that it was. I left simply with a good feeling, and sometimes that is all we really need.

Thank you to my food muse for a spectacular evening and birthday. Thank you to the Modern for what is now my best meal in New York City.

Enjoy, get eating and thanks for reading!

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Kysha Harris is owner of SCHOP! which is available for weekly service or for home entertaining. Questions? Comments? Requests? Feedback? Email