Border-crossing patterns and shapes for autumn/winter ’17
Renee Minus White | 2/10/2017, 3:22 p.m.
At Berlin’s recent autumn/winter ’17 Fashion Week, patterns were abundant in suits, dresses and coats. Isabel Vollrath, designer for I’VR Isabel Vollrath label, does not stick to the idea that fashion is only clothing. She presented border-crossing, three-dimensional sketches and collages, objects of sculpting, political statements as well as cultural travel reports. I’VR Isabel Vollrath highlights recognizable accents that merge fashion and art. The signature silhouettes are structural, abstract pieces. They caress the female figure while visualizing the designer’s passion for extraordinary textures. Her designs feature high-end details and an undeniable craft background in bespoke tailoring.
Designer William Fan, also a part of Berlin’s Fashion Week for Mercedes-Benz, always aims to design the perfect uniform with a modern twist for the everyday battle. His collections usually excel in smart, unconventional fabric choices. He enjoys creating clothes that are functional yet chic. Fan distorts, composes and interprets a Euro-Asian context that’s individual, elegant and calm. For men and women, his clothes are ageless. He is fascinated by the aesthetics of simple uniforms, and he has a knack for mixing classical tailoring with innovative, unisex designs. In his collection, there is a lot of leather, pure wool or silk that re-interprets the work-wear image in an individual way.
Fan made his debut at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin in 2015. This German designer with Asian roots earned his bachelor’s degree at the renowned art college Artez in Arnhem, Netherlands, and completed his master’s program at the art college Berlin Weissensee. For design experience, he worked for the British Couture House of Alexander McQueen. With a standard of traditional craftsmanship, Fan provides a high-quality, functional look. His label collaborates with manufacturers in Germany and Hong Kong.
At the recent New York Fashion Week Men’s ’17 shows, Raf Simons, a designer from Belgium, sent models out on the runway carrying political signs. Here was a perfect example of how the political climate hits the fashion runway.
In his SSense collections, Simons usually captures the energy of the city’s fashion underground. He pioneers looks that are inspired by music and the rebellious energy of the youth culture. Athletic influences, minimalism and deconstruction join futuristic prints and color schemes in his relentlessly modern blends of men’s tailoring and streetwear. He also works with pop art-influenced graphics. Collaged photo prints and high-tech sneakers are designed in a recurring collaboration with Adidas and complement parkas, bomber jackets, graphic tees and button-downs. Raf Simons also created a nostalgic selection of casual knits.