Extraordinary elegance for fall/winter ’17
Renee Minus White | 2/16/2017, 12:40 p.m.
For autumn/winter 2017, Desigual reached back to the ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s for inspiration, interpreting looks from the cultural periphery of these eras. While designing, the design team takes into consideration the views of women, diversity and free expression. There is also a mindful snapshot of every aspect of a woman’s life.
In the collection,za Desigual pays tribute to women who lived within a stricter society. They chose their own rules and celebrated their own identities. The collection encompasses moments when a collage of influences mix together in new and unexpected ways. The combinations of colors, clothes and materials are unique. The result is inspirational yet surprising looks.
On the New York Fashion Week runway at Skylight Clarkson Square, Desigual presented a wide variety of clothes. Many pieces were worn creatively in many ways because of the number of pieces in the designer’s collection. For instance, some jackets were worn backward. Other tops were modeled upside down. Sweaters were tied around the neck or just thrown over the shoulders as shawls. From dancing in all-night parties in Northern England, the design team was influenced by the ‘60s as well as the vogue-styling rage of the early ‘80s in the United States. Incorporating very different philosophies and ideas, the AW ’17 line also displays athletic pieces such as bowling skirts and sports vests. Brogue shoes are shown with high-waisted Oxford trousers.
There’s a focus on the Spanish New Wave and California Rock scenes, and their evocative versions of punk philosophy. When it comes to fashion design, Desigual pushes boundaries and explores them. There’s a specific footprint of punk that goes beyond the looks or clothing. In the Upper Wave section of the show, Desigual integrates the signature iconography of punk with details that incorporate rips and tears, the combination of masculine/feminine, old/new, casual/glamour and industrial jewelry. Here, animal prints, geometric lines, checkerboard plaids, leather, lace, and denim are key pieces in the season’s aesthetic language.
Mixing and layering are the essence of Desigual’s collection. By working with a variety of fabrics, shapes and colors, clothes can be used as vehicles of cultures. For the most part, lengths were below the knee. Skirts were flare and A-shapes. Some shapes were sheer, worn over leggings in contrasting colors. For day-to-day dressing, spontaneity and accessorizing with something unexpected (a scarf, shoes, jewelry) can create an important fashion statement.
On Desigual’s runway, another selection of clothing demonstrated a liberal wave that swept across California in the ‘60s and ‘70s. These trailblazing shapes highlighted the counterculture’s movements. Longer plaid skirts are mixed with printed shirts or jackets in another pattern. Desigual’s AW ’17 collection evokes the attitude of pioneers of the underground scene. These clothes are a great mix of the cult classics, the rise of the Sunset Strip of LA and the founders of the feminist comics. The styles reflect women’s personalities and views of the world. The collection offers a break from the preconceived notions of how women should dress. There are vivid colors and prints. Romantic pieces are inspired by the ‘30s. The clothes also show a woman’s wardrobe for a life in the country.
At the end of the show, all of the models posed for a group photo, signaling women standing together. Some models were sitting on blocks that resembled city buildings. It was impressive! Good show!