In Milan: menswear for fall 2020 is moving
Renee Minus White | 1/16/2020, 11:28 a.m.
It’s Men’s Fashion Week in Milan, Italy. Marni, a collection created by Swiss designer Consuelo Castigioni, has become an international sensation. Last week, they showed an experimental collection characterized by innovative prints and bold colors. For fall/winter 2020, Marni’s mesmerizing looks were well-tailored in clever combinations of colors, styles and shapes. Overall, everything was oversized, yet very comfortable.
Although Castiglioni founded the company in 1994, and appointed Francesco Risso as creative director in 2016, Marni experienced a new chapter in the brand’s history. The fall 2020 show opened with an unusual ensemble including boy shorts and shirt under a white long tunic and black overcoat. A pink shirt and pants set followed, and then came the big coats. Casual pants with wide legs were belted with white slim-fitting t-shirts. Their coats were the talk of the show, due to their two-toned, two-styled fronts. For instance: one side of the coat was long, while the other side was short. One side was brown, while the other side was green. One side may be red, and the other side white. The materials remained the same, though the colors changed.
For a sportier fashion, bold check pantsuits were striking. Even bolder diagonally striped pants were coordinated with sleeveless tops. Layered looks in themes of contrasting sides of clothes continued throughout the show. Toppers, in three-quartered lengths, were shown in prints, solids and patterns. The bulky scarves were wrapped around the neck over a biker leather jacket that rocked over knit pants and matching shirts. Often these looks went from one extreme to another. For business attire, suits with shirts hanging from jackets worked over loose-fitting trousers. There were a few women’s pieces in the collections as well.
Ermenegildo Zegna showed a more conservative collection of business suits with one-button jackets. His clothes were sustainable; in fact, 50% of his collection was created from recycled fabrics. Milan is known for its expert tailors. Their details included jackets with hollowed, two-layered notched lapels and zippered pockets. Some looks were skinnier than last year’s styles. Their precision with their designs and fabrics is always impressive. In this collection, the Milanese man’s coat was well-tailored inside with voluminous shoulders for a better fit over his suits and jackets.
Emporio Armani’s fall 2020 looks were also impeccably tailored, though casually elegant in style. His looks were all summed up in one color with slacks, shirt, vests and overcoats. Belt and pocket details added to the sophistication of the line. The brand Disquared2 offered amazing outerwear with shearling jackets that hung warmly over jeans, a sweater, and a checked work shirt over a warm turtleneck.