Just before the Custo Barcelona show, we had an appointment behind the scenes to meet the designer, Custo Dalmau.
The experience was incredible. He’s a mild-mannered man. Backstage was a huge space filled with a loud-talking crowd of people, including models, hair and makeup artists, dressers and the production crew. Along the walls, there were beautiful clothes on hangers next to big cards with a photo of each model and a picture of what they were wearing. In the midst of chaos, my interview with the designer was short, due to the long line of press waiting to talk to him.
“I design for women who feel young. There are lots of wool coats, both long and short. I am showing lots of silk and lamé in precious prints. And the looks are always changing,” Dalmau said, describing his fall looks. At the Mercedes-Benz fall/winter ’14 Fashion Week in Lincoln Center, he showed about 75 pieces, and there were several silk and lamé looks for evening.
Dalmau’s sultry collection brings a profound shift toward sophistication and refinement. This season, the Custo Barcelona signature trademark of juxtaposing textiles continues to prevail through the evolution of the brand from its original prints to its detailed graphic illusions. For women and men, the fall/winter collection presents a lower decibel of design to showcase chic and wearable trends. His bygone era-inspired dress designs are smartly styled with high-waisted flowing skirts, long-sleeved turtlenecks and crocheted A-lined skirts. Accessories ranged from leather hats and mirrored aviators to height-defying boots in burgundy, blue, gray and black faux pony hair.
On the Lincoln Center runway, Custo Barcelona’s signature style created a new, sophisticated look for women. A general theme of unifying prints and solids in dual materials on the same garment were showcased throughout in the asymmetrical designs. These pieces are prevalent throughout the collection. The brand features an array of oversized coats and sheer dresses in shiny metallic prints. His mini-shorts are crafted in textured fabrics and faux skins.
Three essential winter coats in black, gray and camel give way to the new peacoat in a variety of fabrics, including mohair and faux fur. Sheer blouses and shiny, sheer metallic dresses also add to the transparent moments on the runway. The original prints, another of the brand’s signature trademarks, notably feature geometric patterns and landscapes of New York City and Barcelona on metallic lamé and silk fabrics. While the colors and prints were slightly muted this season, metallic inlays and sheer, shiny silk dresses created a burst of energy on the catwalk.
This standing-room-only show was attended by Joe Jonas, Carrie Preston, Justin Davis, Brad Smith, Janice Dickinson, Miss J. Alexander (“America’s Next Top Model”), Miss Universe Gabriela Isler, Miss USA Erin Brady and Miss Teen USA Cassidy Wolf.
The makeup theme for models of this show was inspired by the 1970s. Beauty tip: “To make your eyes look bigger, bold eyelashes are full on top. On the bottom lid, press your eyebrow pencil at the center of your bottom eyelid and draw the line out to the end,” said a Maybelline representative. Hairstyles featured a sharply cut bang.