At Missoni’s show in Paris, the Trompe L’oeil’s marble pattern floored the runway. In knits, there’s news in space-dyed patterns that are wide, uneven and with blurred bands that resemble television static. Their colorful metallic is inlaid within graphic patterns of wood and marble. Mesmerized by the detail of cuts, patterns and textures, the looks are alluring.
There are great graphics in materials from post-modern interior designs that are inspired by Richard Artschwager. For fall-winter 2015, Missoni’s styles are armed with dashing, seductive spontaneity. Deep in knit, the collection is all about the neo-body-conscious Missoni woman.
On the runway, there are tight-legged trousers combined with one-shoulder knits with zippered, deep necklines. Overalls are back, and they fit bigger than ever. Known for their stripes and knits, Missoni’s marble jersey overalls are sheer and worn under metallic tank dresses or short, tight linear dresses with body-revealing slits. These pieces are worn like second skin. They are soft and enveloping, elastic and versatile. Long, masculine jackets and capes have narrow tuxedo lapels. Jacquard patterns expand like construction games on horizontal, perpendicular and diagonal levels. In these zigzag garments, you can transform your look into some styles that are more abstract, spectacular and iconic.
For accessories, Missoni featured illuminated, long and ultra-light dangling metal earrings in color fringes. Other accessories included calfskin boots, shoes and sabots with slashed uppers and C-shaped heels in resin and metal. Little marbled resin bags are accented with sides and linings in laminated suede. Large leather bags have two handles and sides in laminated suede.
In New York, Roberto Cavalli’s fall-winter 2015-16 collection was inspired by an unexpected vision seen through the lens of the highest Italian craftsmanship. In his interpretation, iconic Chinese elements become luxurious details and a leitmotif of a style that is both cosmopolitan and modern. To create an elongated silhouette, oversized “pagoda” gold buttons punctuate his coats, dresses and maxi-gilets at the raised waists. Transparent plexiglass ankle boots designed with Ming vase-inspired floral motifs in golden metal high heels are worn with his pretty long and short dresses. Semi-flats are worn with loose, tailored pants.
In details, Cavalli’s decorations become jewels. On the wide belts and on the new Heroine bag, he adds beautiful buckles. This bag can also be worn as a maxi clutch or as a shoulder bag. The last reference to traditional Chinese motifs is shown in the linings of Cavalli’s long coats. Linings are painted and embroidered like cloisonne enamel.
For a modern motif, Cavalli’s inspiration comes from the romantic Chinese heroine Maggie Cheung. His windowpane checkered print is a new graphic element that’s interpreted as a white stitched leather embellishment on wool crepe column coats. Other details include white string embroidery on a black micro-paillette evening dresses, melded floral patterns and white paillettes on fur. Hand sewn silk fringes create an entirely new type of “fur.”
Cavalli’s Shanghai night dresses are either very long or super short in hand lacquered Chinese screen-printed silk. These soft, slithery pieces are on the runway in silk with velvet embroidery, delicate traces of tiger stripes. More dreamy evening dresses flow with whispery chiffon panels.