Big isn’t always better. Take the small island of Nevis. Set in the Leeward Islands of the Caribbean, it’s just 36 square miles in size and home to some 12,000 people, yet Nevis is more than anough to capture your heart.

Mount Nevis, a 3,232-feet-high dormant volcano always surrounded by mist, is magical. Then there is the double dose of water wonders—the vibrant blue-greens of the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. The constant sunshine is the sugar on top. When you take the short water taxi ride from sister island St. Kitts to Nevis, the anticipation builds. You won’t be disappointed.

There’s nothing citified about Nevis, with its rolling countryside, wild donkeys, goats, chickens, cows and green vervet monkeys. The vibe is chill and the beaches so beautiful even if water isn’t your thing, you just may not be able to resist a dip. Feast your eyes on Nisbet Beach, Pinney’s Beach, Oaulie Beach, Lovers’ Beach, Newcastle Beach or Windward Beach and you’ll know why. You can’t go wrong. For the adventurous, Scuba Safaris, out of Oaulie Beach, offers a variety of dives. You can also snorkel the reefs and look for sea turtles. Surf, Jet Ski, set out for a day of fishing, do a sunset cruise, horseback ride on Pinney’s Beach, or simply stroll the shores with your honey.

Hikers love climbing to the peak of Mount Nevis. It’s not for rookies. If that puts you on the sidelines, no worries, there’s a lesser, but still thrilling time to be had hiking to the waterfalls. It’s just adventurous enough that you’ll earn bragging rights and stories to share when you get back home. You’ll be surprised how tight you grip the ropes that keep you on your feet while winding your way through the forest. It’s big fun. Get your heart racing and enjoy the serenity of being enveloped in greenery. That is what you came for—to see and conquer. If you’re more of a walker, go to the Botanical Gardens of Nevis. There are five-acre gardens with tropical plants from around the world, dolphin fountains, cascades, water lilies, more than 100 species of palm, orchids and more. Hungry? Head upstairs to the Oasis Bar and Restaurant for a spectacular view of the island and authentic Thai food.

History buffs, Nevis is where you’ll find Cottle Church, the first church in the Caribbean built for all people, regardless of color, to worship together. The Broadway hit “Hamilton” has Alexander Hamilton in the spotlight. His birthplace is Nevis. On the waterfront, near the heart of Charlestown, the nation’s capital, founded in 1600, is Hamilton House, a Georgian-style building that is the site where he was born and raised, and today is the Alexander Hamilton Museum. Walk around Charlestown and the past is ever present. The Jewish Cemetery is one of the oldest in the Caribbean, with graves dating back to 1679. The Nevis Slave Market from the 1670s was where newly arrived enslaved Africans were sold to plantation owners from various islands.

You won’t find a lot of traditional night life and you won’t miss it. There are great restaurants and plenty have live music. On Thursday night, the action is at Coconuts, the beachside restaurant at Nisbet Plantation Beach Club. The cocktail hour is hearty and the barbecue a feast. The outrageous array of desserts will put you on sugar overload if you get carried away. Dance to live music if your belly’s not too full. Wherever you are in Nevis, excellent food is near. Lime Beach Bar & Grill is popular, as is Sunshine’s Bar & Grill, famous for its Killer Bee. Try one, two or more and you might pay the price. One meal you’ll remember is one at the Golden Rock Inn’s The Rocks Restaurant. Dine alfresco on decks overlooking the sea or in intimate garden settings. Enjoy signature cocktails such as the Spicy Mount St. Helena in the bar that has stone vaulted ceilings. The Gin Trap Bar and Restaurant is stylish and contemporary, and you’ll find locals and tourists, the cool crowd. Go for spicy pork tenderloin, with apple chutney paired with a local salad and seasonal veggies, surf and turf, ravioli of the day and more. Wash all that deliciousness down with your choice of more than 100 varieties of gins. Around the island, you won’t have to look hard to find the national dish of salt fish, dumplings and provisions (sweet potatoes or other root vegetables), peppers and onions.

There are roughly 450 rooms for tourists, but you have options—historic inns, villas, the five-star Four Seasons, with its golf course, spa and enough amenities to attract celebrities seeking a hidden vacation, as well as the award-winning Nisbet Plantation Beach Club, which has the distinction of being the only historic inn on the shore. If you’re debating about a Caribbean Christmas getaway, Nisbet’s gift to you is Christmas night for free on stays of seven nights or more that include Dec. 25. You’ll love the cozy, homey cottages and the beyond friendly staff, and there’s something special about opening the door and being right in nature. Don’t be surprised if you awake one morning to find a cow in front of your cottage.