With a name like Carmel-by-the-Sea, how can you go wrong? This city on California’s central coast is downright charming. The fairytale-like architecture courtesy of Hugh Comstock, who designed cottages back in the 1920s with complete rolled eaves, rounded doors and asymmetrical chimneys, creates the magic. You’ll be awed by 21 of his masterpieces that add character to the town.
Where to start? Perhaps Carmel Beach. The long, wide, white sand beach is one of the most beloved in the state. Lollygag lazily along the beach. For sure get your selfie stick out. The scenery is serene. You’ll fixate on Point Lobos to the south, Pebble Beach to the north and, of course, the Pacific.
When you’re ready for a little retail therapy, explore the boutiques and shops in the 1-square mile, European-style village, with cobble stone streets, paths and passageways. Do leave high heels at home unless you want to spoil your vacation. Not only might you hurt yourself but also if you’re on the main thoroughfare, Ocean Avenue, technically you’d be breaking the law if the heel is over 2 inches and has a less than 1-inch square base. Alas, no worries, you won’t get a ticket. It’s just another something that makes Carmel special. You won’t find addresses either. You’ll be told something is on the north side of a certain street, between this street and that street. Good luck. The town’s so small, though, you’ll be fine. And you won’t find much in the way of street lights, which make tooling around town at night a
bit of a challenge.
Don’t, however, look for chain stores or bargains, but high-end boutique and artisanal shops, galleries, wine tasting rooms and—the big surprise—food, food and more food. The more than 60 restaurants will surely be a big part of what you talk to people about when you get back home.
The story of Carmel and nearby Monterey is the emerging food scene. Locals clearly have bragging rights when it comes to cuisine. But decide for yourself. A food tour is a great way to sample the goodies. It will be three hours of sheer bliss. Stop in Brophy’s Tavern for Carmel’s twist on pub food. The fish and chips—halibut, steak fries and remoulade—might be some of the best outside of the U.K. Go for the giant pretzel with bacon and chive cream cheese, spicy sauerkraut mustard or the crispy chicken sandwich on an artisan ciabatta roll, heirloom tomato, Jack cheese, butter leaf lettuce and avocado aioli. Wash it down with hand-crafted cocktails or an array of beers.
Affina Food and Wine is elegant without being fussy. You can hear live jazz in the evenings. Go for tempting entrees or bites such as housemade crispy rolls with ground beef, carrots and onions wrapped in rice paper, smoked salmon crostini or steamed Manila clams.
Your tour might also include popping into Lula’s Chocolates or the Carmel Honey Company.
After all that food, what can be better than strolling from tasting room to tasting room? Some of the most popular include Scheid Vineyards, Wrath Wines and Vino Napoli.
There’s nothing like satiation to put you in the mood to recline. One of the best places to stay is La Playa Carmel, a former mansion built in in 1905. There’s a good reason it’s called the “Grande Dame of Carmel.” The manicured gardens, intimate patios, tucked away courtyards and terrace swimming pool set the stage for all things serene, elegant and high-touch. You barely get through the door and someone arrives with libations for weary travelers checking in.
If it’s Sunday between 5 p.m. and 5:10 p.m., at The Bar at La Playa Carmel, for a dime you can get wine, beer or martinis, paying homage to La Playa’s owner, Howard Bud Allen, back in the 1950s, who believed in having 10 cent martinis Sunday nights.
Before you leave Carmel to finish off your vacay in Monterey, which is approximately 10 minutes away, there are two must-dos. One is breakfast at California Market at Pacific’s Edge. Set high on a hill overlooking the crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean and the Big Sur coast, with large windows everywhere, you feel like you’re outside. The food is organic with locally grown and raised ingredients. Favorites include the Point Lobos Benedict, chicken hash and the chorizo scramble. Next up, Refuge, an aptly name spa. Enjoy the thermal-cycle, where you heat up, cool down and relax. The facility is home to the largest coed cedar sauna in the U.S., and has a eucalyptus steam room, four Nordic cool pools and six hot pools with cascading thermal waterfalls, in more than 2 acres of indoor and outdoor recreation areas with fire pits and views of the Saint
Lucia Preserve.
Make your way to Monterey. It’s ideal for kayaking or paddle boarding. Walk the wharf, go whale watching or stroll Cannery Row. For sure visit the Monterey Bay Aquarium. It will bring out the kid in you. The Dali Museum is the first permanent Dali exhibition on the West Coast and the largest private collection on exhibit in the U.S. If you have time, take the 17-mile drive for one mile after another of outrageous scenery. Be sure, too, that the good eating isn’t limited to Carmel. Jack’s Monterey at Portola Hotel & Spa and the Whaling Station Steakhouse will not disappoint. Another great spot is Beach House Restaurant & Bar at Lover’s Point. The panoramic views are dreamy as you stare out the window.
Carmel and Monterey is a combination guaranteed to make you chill, California style.