You know the saying, “One in the hand is better than two in the bush?” It refers to being grateful for what you have instead of waiting for what might be. I find it to be so true in life, but at a little tapas joint in the West Village, one tapa in the hand just means there are two, or more, on the way!
After a couple of false starts, I finally made it to La Mano (@LaManoNYC, 39 Christopher St., 212-243-3200, www.lamanonyc.com) for what would be an outstanding experience in an authentic Spanish tapas bar. I was grateful I had my Bay Area chef friend Kuulani with me. She stopped in New York on the way home from her European holiday. Our palates are so simpatico we might have reached a higher food vibration together.
We happily arrived early evening, before service picked up, so we could see the intimate low-lit space with a combination of communal and individual tables, plus café and bar seating. I peeped at the chefs working behind the bar in a petite exposed kitchen while we were being seated. They looked o-fficial!
La Mano’s general manager, Diego Nuñez, came over to greet us with two glasses of some awesome cava produced by women vintners. We could have sipped that all night, but, like the food to come, we gave Nuñez and the La Mano team free license for an experience best representing them.
We began with the ensalada ($14) of roasted beets and artichoke hearts with goat cheese crema, pomegranate, orange supremes, honey and parsley oil. Bright, earthy, sweet and savory, it was paired with a unique albarino wine. It was the perfect start!
We moved to strip loin carpaccio ($18) with preserved lemon, Idazabal cheese, piquillo jam and truffle aioli. This one was everything I wanted after seeing the beautiful plating, and then some.
Our next two plates of egg and potato tortilla ($11) and croquetas de jamon ($12) were right. The latter, of serrano ham béchamel filled, panko coated, fried balls served with guindilla aoil, explode with flavor in your mouth. They were like none I have had before.
We were happy by this point until the—what will soon be infamous—paella negra ($34) emerged. Calasparra rice cooked in squid ink broth with octopus, shrimp, Manila clams, mussels and garlic aioli. The entire dish was cooked to perfection down to the soccarat (crispy rice) on the bottom of the pan. Que rico!
We finished with a carrillera ($32) of braised beef cheeks, trinxat (a rosti of bacon, potato, cabbage puree) with tempranillo jus, bread pudding and the requisite yet outstanding sherry.
Thank you, La Mano! I will return for brunch—and that paella negra!
Happy eating and thanks for reading!
Kysha Harris is a food writer and editor, culinary producer, consultant and owner of SCHOP!, a personalized food service in NYC for more than 15 years. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram, @SCHOPgirl, on Facebook, /SCHOPnyc, and her blog, www.talkingSCHOP.wordpress.com. Questions? Comments? Requests? Feedback? Invitations! Email AmNewsFOOD at AmNewsFOOD@SCHOPnyc.com. Follow us on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook @NYAmNewsFOOD and tag us with #SoAmNewsFOOD with
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