Sustainability leads the way for designers in London and Paris. Brand executives are producing more eco-friendly collections. At the British Fashion Council’s London Fashion Week (LFW), there were fur-free items, a repeat of last year’s practice. For British designs, Bethany Williams was the first winner of the Queen Elizabeth II Award. Orsola de Castro and Filippo Ricci, founders of Fashion Revolution, showed sustainable styles at LFW. Other LFW brands included Vin + Omi, Riona Treacy, AV, DB Berdan, Riley Studio Hanna Fiedler and Unaji.
At Vin+Omi’s show prints and patterns were new. After meeting Prince Charles, the designers transformed the Prince’s nettle plants into woven material. These fabrics were toned and treated with plant dyes for the presentation. They also utilized recycled plastic waste from art supplier Daler Rowney that created fabric to help make their prints. The show also featured bags made from discarded vinyl outdoor posters from Ocean Outdoor.
AV was part of LFW Fashion Scouts who pointed out the brand One To Watch. This new womenswear brand is created by Andrea Altman. A couture-oriented label, they focus on craftsmanship and innovative materials. In their SS 2020 line, they worked with biological cotton, Tensil, rayon, natural rubber and fishing nets.
Unaji, the menswear brand, is designed by British artist Emanual Unaji. Currently an art student, Unaji will even work with clothes that are in your closet. His best designs appear on shirts, hoodies and jackets. Riley Studio, another new sustainable unisex loungewear brand uses fabrics that are made from uncycled waste products like ocean plastics, fishing nets and natural fibers.
DB Berdan creates streetwear and club clothes. This popular London-based company is run by the mother and daughter team Beg Berdan and Deniz Berdan. They work with organic cotton and environmentally friendly dyes. Often their garments can create two fashion looks. Oversized tie dye denim hoodies and track pants also work as shorts and skirt pieces.
Hanna Fiedler, a London-based womenswear brand, creates sustainable pieces in natural fibers, like wool, silk, organic cotton from European mills. She produces made-to-order basics that last and are good investment classics.