Beauty may, as they say, only be skin deep. Unfortunately, that is often the case for the beauty industry as a whole, where clean-washing and green-washing have become the latest trend to mask an industry that is rife with products that contain dangerously unhealthy ingredients.
I used to enjoy shopping for cosmetics and beauty products. It was exciting, even therapeutic. But the more I learn, the more nerve-racking it can be, because this experience has become tainted by the ugly reality that many of the products we buy—intended for self-care, wellness, and everyday use—contain chemicals that are harming our health. Few of these dangerous chemicals are openly disclosed on lists of ingredients. The danger is intensified by the cumulative impacts of using multiple products, which often occurs on a daily basis.
In the last year, the makeup brand Maybelline, owned by L’Oreal, faced a class action lawsuit over the presence of per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances (PFAs) in their waterproof mascaras. PFAs are a class of synthetic chemicals used heavily in products like waterproof mascaras, lipsticks, and eyeliner. They’re commonly referred to as “forever chemicals” because of their inability to break down in people’s bodies and the environment. When ingested or absorbed, PFAs accumulate in our organs and tissues.
This bioaccumulation can lead to adverse health impacts, including immune system disruption, endocrine disruption, liver and kidney damage, developmental delays, and an increased risk of certain cancers.
Many cosmetic products in the United States contain ingredients that are banned in the European Union (EU). In cosmetics alone, the EU has restricted or banned more than 1,300 chemicals compared to only 11 banned here in the United States.
Given the global nature of the industry, how do manufacturers handle the drastically different requirements of these markets? Some simply omit the banned substances from the products they sell in Europe, while others reformulate products with safer ingredients. An example of this latter approach is CeraVe, which adjusts its formulations to address substances prohibited in Europe, such as parabens.
This begs the question: If companies are already mass-producing the same products with safer ingredients, or simply omitting the harmful ones, why can’t they sell these safer products to the American market?
It’s disheartening that many individuals are simply unaware of the harmful chemicals in the products they purchase. The façade of a pretty package and promising results divert attention from the dangers hidden in an intentionally confusing ingredient list. This reality underscores the critical need for legislation that bans the most harmful chemicals and forces manufacturers to label the ingredients in the products they sell clearly and transparently.
New York State has an opportunity to do just that, with the Beauty Justice Act (S.4265/A.6969). This bill requires manufacturers to disclose the ingredients in personal care products and their health impacts. It also bans the most dangerous chemicals, including those that disproportionately harm women and femme-identifying people of color, who, thanks to racist beauty standards and aggressive target marketing, have higher rates of use of these products. Ultimately, this legislation is vital to upholding New York State’s commitment to prioritizing the health and safety of consumers while pushing the beauty industry to come clean.
Elizabeth Reyes is the Toxics Policy Campaigns coordinator at WE ACT for Environmental Justice, where she works to advance programs and policies to protect people of color from the disproportionate exposure to toxic chemicals.
Great article and red Ms. Reyes. I wanted to add that if you do choose to purchase cosmetics not only should you read all the ingredients, where the product is manufactured and the company’s practices, but also use tools available online like The Environmental Working Group or EWG’s website to see if a product for example is safe based on the ingredients or contains. I believe you can also suggest a product be input into the system. Women are large consumers of cosmetics and toiletries, so it is extremely important that we know what we are using for our bodies as it not only affects us but our children and the environment as well. Yes, cosmetics and toiletries leach into the water supply as does medications and hormonal birth control. We really need to be focused on wholistic health because in the end everyone including the environment will be affected.