One of my greatest joys in my food and hospitality career is meeting chefs and food makers, and learning about what they do, how they do it, and — of course — eating all of their creations. It is like witnessing an artist create, and being fortunate enough to know why they create. It is an honor every time.
One of these great chefs is James Beard Awards 2024 finalist for Outstanding Chef, Chef Renee Touponce. She is the co-owner and executive chef of Port of Call and Oyster Club in Mystic, Conn. I met her last year on a visit to Mystic to celebrate Jacques Pepin’s birthday at Stone Acre Farm, where she and other chefs were cooking in his honor. It was a special night.
I had the pleasure to eat at both of Chef Renee’s restaurants, the day after the dinner and on another visit for a fundraiser. She is thoughtful, meticulous, and generous in her approach to food and with her staff. It shows on the plate and in the service. I still vibrate from their hotdog bahn mi served on a housemade bao.
When I saw that the legendary Outstanding in the Field, “a roving restaurant without walls” featuring local purveyors and chefs, would be helmed by Chef Touponce in Jamestown, R.I., of course I had to go. I rode back up to Connecticut with my best-good Judy, and Harlem’s Melba Wilson, before party-busing to the field at Watson Farm with colleagues, now friends.
Kysha Harris photos
Until this moment, I had not been to an Outstanding in the Field event since its beginnings 15 years ago and a dinner at Queens Farm. I can’t say anything has changed in that time, and that is an outstanding thing. Kudos to the founder, Jim Denevan, who has created an experience just as magical as his sand sculptures.
The 100 guests gathered barnside to imbibe Martha Stouman wine, local Pivotal Brewing Company beers, and Chef Renee’s homemade kombucha; partake in fabulous passed hors d’oeuvres; sidle up to the raw bar for Charlestown, RI, Beachway oysters from 401 Oyster Co.; and get salutations (replete with a full weather report, even though it was a stunning day) from Jim and his team.
Soon we were off to learn more about Watson Farm and their regenerative practices, before making our way to an open field overlooking Narragansett Bay, where the sun magically set before us. As we made our way, we passed the mobile kitchen with Chef Renee and the team assembling the first course.
A tall, green grass path led us to the white linen table set in an open spiral, much like OITF’s logo. Soon the unique celebration began with a hyper-local meal progression of bread, cultured butter, jam, and roasted vegetables; cantaloupe with spicy pork jowl and cucumber salad with cashew hummus; roasted squash and corn porridge with The Gray cheese (a whole vibe, this cheese); roasted Watson Farm beef short ribs with Korean style banchan plate to make lettuce wraps; and finally, citrus polenta Bundt cake with peaches and cream after the sunset.
OITF, Chef Renee, and their teams did the damn thing! The experience will continue to live rent-free in my head until the end of time. Truly a food bucket list item to check off your list soon.
Happy eating and thanks for reading!
Kysha Harris is a chef, food writer and editor, culinary producer, consultant, and owner of
SCHOP!, a personalized food service in NYC for more than 22 years. Follow her on Instagram,
@SCHOPnyc and on Facebook, @SCHOPnyc.
Questions, comments, requests, feedback, invitations! Email us at AmNewsFOOD@SCHOPnyc.com.