Last week I celebrated pasta — though not just any pasta. Together with a select group of guests, we celebrated 100 years since the first production of Rustichella d’Abruzzo pasta. Italian American food has not been my choice for a while, but after this night, this food, this wine, and this pasta, my 25% Italian DNA has come back to life!
My good friend and outstanding writer, Adam Reiner, and I set out for an evening that began with a quick steak dinner. Quick?! Yes, that can now be a thing in NYC with the opening of the DMV original Medium Rare, where they serve only steak frites using one cut of beef, coulotte (top sirloin). Just tell them your temperature preference, and your meal will ensue.
Adam and I briskly walked across town to digest our first dinner in preparation for our second at Bar Primi, owned by chef and restaurateur Andrew Carmelini’s (Locanda Verde, The Dutch, Joe’s Pub, Lafayette), across the street from Moynihan Train Hall. The entrance to the space gave me all the vibes I didn’t know existed in midtown, with outdoor seating and a bar set back from the street. The retro modern interior led us back to the private dining area, which was the perfect place to celebrate the Italian brand.
We began with some absolutely gorgeous Italian wines. From the full, dry, dark rosé piquing my palette and a pecorino white wine serving unoaked chardonnay realness to a stunning Montepulciano drinking like fresh fruit, I swore we were on a veranda overlooking a vineyard.
Wine in hand, Adam and I had the great opportunity to speak with members of the Peduzzi family about their history and how they’ve continued to evolve over the years. What started simply with durum wheat and Apennine mountain water has evolved to myriad pastas using heritage wheat flours, whole wheat, farro, high-percentage egg based, and tons of gluten-free pasta using (separately) legumes, rice, and corn.
Kysha Harris photos
Today, Rusticella d’Abruzzo has more than 100 types of pasta that are still crafted sustainably in small batches, extruded through traditional bronze dies, and slowly dried at low temperatures for up to 56 hours to preserve their nutritional value. Fourth-generation family member and owner Piero Peduzzi said, “I am filled with pride for the legacy we’ve built, rooted in our family’s passion for artisanal pasta making. Our journey began with a simple yet profound belief in quality, and that belief continues to guide us today. We are excited to continue sharing the true taste of Abruzzo with the world.”
After some heartfelt words from Gianluigi Peduzzi, the patriarch of the family, we feasted. Good thing Bar Primi’s executive chef Luciano Duco did not let the restaurant’s name down with the first course, primi. Hot knots with Italian chili crisp, red beet salad with pistachio and horseradish yogurt, Brussels sprouts with crispy pepperoni and young pecorino cheese, and Sicilian Caesar salad with tahini and toasted sesame were my standouts. The star of the night, Rustichella d’Abruzzo pasta, shined bright in whole wheat penne rigate (ridges) with garlic, olive oil, and peperoncino; spaghettoni (large spaghetti) in tomato sauce with parmigiano-reggiano; trenne (triangular tube pasta) with spicy red shrimp and “some other stuff”; and egg pappardelle with ragu bolognese.
I could barely fit desserts of “the strawberry fantasy” and pistachio gelato in my mouth before grabbing my doggie bag and the generous gift bag filled with a year’s supply — or, for me, a month — of Rustichella d’Abruzzo pastas and swag.
Congratulazioni per i cento anni e grazie mille per la serata!
Happy eating, and thanks for reading!
Kysha Harris is a chef, food writer and editor, culinary producer, consultant and owner of
SCHOP!, a personalized food service in NYC for over 22 years. Follow her on Instagram,
@SCHOPnyc and on Facebook, @SCHOPnyc.
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