Have you heard the word “izakaya” before and wondered what it means? The Japanese word is made of three characters that translate to “stay-drink-place.” Think: your local pub, a dive bar, or any informal space where there is inexpensive food and drink. Izakaya are the after work gathering spaces we all know too well. You might even be at one right now reading this. And if so, “kanpai!”
While we know there is no dearth of izakaya-like spaces in the city, a new modern izakaya has opened on the ground floor of Hotel On Rivington in the LES. It is called Kin Gin. With Japanese small plates made with local ingredients plus an international G&T (gin and tonic) menu, it was calling my name. So my friend Kate and I went to check it out.
Arriving at Kin Gin brought back some good memories of an overnight stay in the hotel above many years ago when there was no restaurant on the ground floor. Newly remodeled, the space serves mid-century modern Japanese minimalism. Walking in, one might confuse the hotel reception desk in the lounge with the host stand but, following the long marble bar, the space opens to a beautiful atrium and large marble fireplace.
Before Kate and I would peruse the menu, the libations needed to flow. From the G&T menu I couldn’t decide between the London or the Japan drink, and soon chose the latter for the Etsu yuzu gin, yuzu tonic, makrut (lime leaf), cardamom, and mint. When the goblet arrived I swooned at the first sip. Absolutely sublime.
Like any good izakaya, Kin Gin’s menu consists of small shareable plates for diners to build their meal. Kate and I built a doozy that lives rent free in my head.
We ordered an array of dishes that began with the raw bar. First, the stunningly presented sea scallop sashimi with uni (sea urchin), ikura (salmon roe), nori (seaweed), ume (plum), and dashi (broth). My goodness this gave me life. The miso-cured hamachi with yuzu and avocado also hit.
Kysha Harris photos
Our other plates of note were: saka mushi of dashi-steamed clams, spicy miso, ginger, and house-made milk bread; chicken kara-age (Japanese fried chicken) with lemon curry espuma and pickled daikon; king crab chawanmushi with Ossetra caviar, bacon, and lion’s mane mushroom; and mushroom kama-meshi with polished rice. All were really thoughtful plates.
Later we sipped on our milky sake aperitivo while awaiting the unexpected battery of dessert coming our way. Initially, there was nothing on the dessert menu of interest to me but when they hit the table it was on. The sweet potato crème brûlée was a well roasted Japanese yam opened, fluffed, filled with the crème mixture, and topped with brûléed sugar. Perfection sums it up! And the kakigori (shaved iced) with whipped mascarpone, condensed milk, and brown sugar syrup is a must for the table.
Kin Gin can get it again and again. I will see you there next time with a G&T in hand.
The 17th Annual New York City Wine & Food Festival begins next week, Oct. 17-20.
For the first time the festival will be headquartered in Brooklyn with many new events for all.
See you at a Grand Tasting, Chef JJ Johnson’s Cook Out, Burger Bash, Foodie Con and more.
Tickets are still available at www.nycwff.org.
Happy eating and thanks for reading!
Kysha Harris is a chef, food writer and editor, culinary producer, consultant and owner of
SCHOP!, a personalized food service in NYC for over 22 years. Follow her on Instagram,
@SCHOPnyc and on Facebook, @SCHOPnyc.
Questions, comments, requests, feedback, invitations! Email us at AmNewsFOOD@SCHOPnyc.com. Follow us on Instagram and Facebook @NYAmNewsFOOD.