No, I am not trying to bait you with the title of this piece, especially after this week. As I write this before Tuesday’s election, all I know is I am over it. I even voted early to move through Election Day as if it were just another day. What I do know is that I want freedom (... freedom I can’t move … cut me loose!) from the campaigning, rhetoric, and dram-ala. I just want to feel good-ala.
To counteract this week of anxiety, I knew I needed to go to my happy place, which always includes food, friends, and new experiences. Any permutation of these elements makes me feel right as rain, so I dove into my recent archives of joy and pulled out a Sunday brunch (food) with Melba Wilson (friends) for a first visit to the Good Good (new experience) on the corner of Park Avenue and 119th Street.
Walking up to the space gives me all of my 1990s downtown NYC dining vibes I still require in my life. I am talking about Indochine, Lucky Strike, the Odeon, Nick & Eddie (where I used to be a server), and more. From the gilded lettering and wooden louvered shades on the windows and French-Vietnamese floral accents to the parlor-style bar, warm- toned leather banquets, and amber lighting, I was transformed into my irreverent 20-something-year-old self.
The Good Good is the second location for the Masters sisters, Justine and Juliet. Their first Harlem location, the Edge, celebrates their 10th anniversary this year. Congratulations! For the Good Good, they teamed up with NYC restauranteur legend Lesly Bernard of Tillmans, Clementine, Jones Yakitori, and more. This is why my 1990s hospitality sixth sense was piqued.
Melba and I were seated and immediately ordered a breakfast cocktail. For me, it had to be the Bloody Mary, but Melba got into the breakfast martini of gin, lemon juice, Cointreau, and apricot marmalade. Ma’am! Delicious. I will order that next time.
We started with the salted codfish fritters with jerk lime aioli. When I tell you you bet’ not go and not order these, I mean that with all my heart. Hot, crispy, moist inside, and seasoned like they ought to be. Share if you dare, but why would you? Justine, new lunch item: fritters & fries. We’ll discuss.
For our main courses, I have to get shrimp and grits every time I see it. Melba’s mouth demanded French toast with berries, rum-spiced whipped cream, and maple syrup. That rum-spiced whipped cream is a moment.
While I have only been to the Good Good for brunch, I can tell you the vibes are right, any and every time. Whether for their cocktails (includes zero-proof options) or their Earth-Surf-Turf titled menu, the Good Good will have you leaving feeling better than good. You will feel great.ala.
Happy eating and thanks for reading!
Kysha Harris is a chef, food writer and editor, culinary producer, consultant, and owner of
SCHOP!, a personalized food service in NYC for more than 22 years. Follow her on Instagram,
(@SCHOPnyc) and Facebook (@SCHOPnyc).
Questions, comments, requests, feedback, invitations: email at AmNewsFOOD@SCHOPnyc.com. Follow on Instagram and Facebook @NYAmNewsFOOD.