Like Mariah Carey announcing the beginning of the Christmas season, it’s ti-iiime for me to unwrap and unpack an early gift I received in October for you. A quick trip to the west coast proved to be filled with pure joy, reconnection, celebration, and art on a plate.
Earlier this year, I had the best meal I have ever eaten at the James Beard House, hands down. (I am looking forward to sharing this with you soon). Presented by the Visit Phoenix tourism board, Bravo’s “Top Chef” season 7 finalist and celebrated chef Angelo Sosa was at the helm showcasing the flavors of his Asian street food restaurant Kembara. This was not the first time I have eaten Chef Sosa’s food and will not be the last …
What began as a chance meeting at the New York City Wine & Food Festival became an invitation to a full circle moment a little over fourteen years later in Palm Springs, California to visit Angelo Sosa’s latest restaurant creations, Tía Carmen and Carmocha.
On my first night, along with other food media guests, we dined on the foods of Carmocha as the sun set over the golf course. We sipped on signature cocktails before Chef Sosa emerged from the kitchen to welcome us and talk a little about his inspiration, his aunt Carmen, and her love of travel and food. This would be the beginning of this artist painting a picture before each course for diners to experience in each bite.
Kysha Harris photo
My Carmocha favorites revolve around the chicken-shaped Cuban chicken hand pie, the Mediterranean salad with falafel, feta, and herb dressing, and five spice sticky pork ribs with mango, medjool date, and tamarind sauce. Chef Sosa’s deft talent at balancing all of the elements of flavor is never missed on me. As he lives in life, he cooks with harmony and intention.
Our final night was a multi-course meal at Tía Carmen. Simply, I was not ready. Chef Sosa led his all-Latino team in an epic night of storytelling and culinary grace.
We began with pan frito, a cotija cheese fry bread with serrano and honey butter. Silence befell the table before moans of disbelief. Then a beautiful salad followed by hamachi crudo in corn coconut broth, smoked chili oil on a slice of banana (yes, it works!), and then perfectly grilled octopus with local heirloom bean puree.
We moved on to one of the most transformative bites of the evening. Ember-roasted purple yam topped with aged tepary bean mole and queso served with a burning ember. Absolutely incredible.
After sharing the story of the next dish, Chef Sosa came and personally made a slow-cooked barbacoa taco with a perilla leaf, topped with hibiscus and rice vinegar, marinated red onions, and caviar. Yes chef, I ate every bite of it.
And for dessert? I was fortunate enough to have Chef Sosa’s vanilla flan again. Not just any flan. This one includes tequila caramel and topped with a Nor’Easter of manchego cheese. It is a “not to miss” dish.
Congratulations Angelo! You have done it again. Continue to lead your team to glory with kindness, pride, and selflessness. You are appreciated.
Happy eating and thanks for reading!
Kysha Harris is a chef, food writer and editor, culinary producer, consultant and owner of
SCHOP!, a personalized food service in NYC for over 22 years. Follow her on Instagram,
@SCHOPnyc and on Facebook, @SCHOPnyc.
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