The African diaspora’s contribution to the cultural identity of the Americas and the Caribbean is evident in its aesthetics. Afrodescendant women maintained a certain standard of beauty and used various techniques to create countless hairstyles. Those styles were not widely appreciated, though, and that led some Black women to straighten their hair. This choice might have stemmed from a desire for aesthetic assimilation to the straight hair associated with white women, or some may have felt that straight hair was simply easier to manage.
In Afro Cuban society there is now a growing movement to preserve the aesthetics of African-origin hairstyles that show off cultural dignity. Personally, I find inspiration in my grandmother, who was of African descent and lived to be one hundred and three years old. She adorned her hair with various styles she called “loanguitos,” a term derived from the ancient kingdom of Luango, now part of Congo Brazzaville.
Rizo Libre: Liberating the Afro Cuban experience
Yadira Rachel Vargas Horta is a historian, restorer, and museography specialist who has worked at the Museo de la Música (Museum of Music) and Casa de las Americas. Her journey through various disciplines, combined with her exploration of Afrodescendant aesthetics, prompted her to reflect on how her experiences intersected. Her work has involved deep dives into the cultural heritage of Afrodescendant communities, and she has aimed to preserve and celebrate their unique histories and contributions.
Through her research, Vargas Horta recognized the importance of hair as a powerful symbol of identity and resistance within Afro Cuban society. She does not view the current Black hair movement as a mere Rastafarian-style fashion trend, but rather as an aesthetic component of cultural identity and a resistance against “ethnic shame.” That shame comes from the failure of some sectors of Cuban society to recognize that the “rizo” or “curly hair” can serve as a symbol of Afro Cuban cultural affirmation. Maintaining traditional African-origin hairstyles is a way to honor the legacy of Afrodescendant ancestors and assert pride in that heritage.
How was Rizo Libre created?
Rizo Libre, or Free Curl, was started during the pandemic when Vargas Horta began creating curls for her mother, who had been used to wearing her hair in straight hairstyles. Vargas Horta has two daughters and she also began styling their hair.
The initiative began at home, involving her family. Soon after, a friend offered to bring her hair accessories, and subsequently, young women, adults, and girls started to join.
While Vargas Horta worked on a person’s curls, they would discuss their experiences, including the preference for straightening hair for perceived better looks or social acceptance, indicating the impact of symbolic violence and racial stereotypes.
Vargas Horta’s initiative, Rizo Libre, quickly became a community hair salon. The space exemplifies a commitment to cultural preservation and education. By creating a community where individuals can come together to celebrate and maintain African-oriented aesthetics, she has fostered a space for dialogue and empowerment.
Rizo Libre not only encourages the embracing of natural curls but also addresses broader issues such as racism, symbolic violence, and historical injustices. The project serves as a platform for raising awareness about the impact of racial stereotypes and the importance of cultural dignity.
Vargas Horta’s efforts have led to significant milestones, including the organization of workshops like the “Magical Hair” event she held for children in June 2023, where participants learned about the cultural significance of their hair and shared their personal experiences. These workshops have been instrumental in fostering a sense of pride and identity among young Afrodescendant Cubans, helping them to navigate societal pressures and embrace their natural beauty.
Vargas Horta’s dedication to these causes is reflected in her authorship of the book “Historias de Afroestima. Mi cabello rizado (Story of Black self-esteem: My curly hair)” which catalogues her observations and experiences with Rizo Libre. Her work inspires and empowers Afrodescendant communities, reaffirming the importance of embracing one’s heritage and aesthetic identity.
For more information on Rizo Libre, visit their Instagram page: @rizo.libre.