I have been dubious about food halls. You know, the places with multiple walk-up counters, communal seating, and the perpetual hunt for a clean table? I liken them to mall food courts, albeit upgraded with not so many commercial food businesses.
So when I was invited to see the latest food hall in New York City … on Fifth Avenue (head cocks to the right) … in the old Lord & Taylor building (head cocks to the left) … computing; … It was an instant yes. I hopped on the bus after cooking for my SCHOP! client in midtown and walked in the gilded doors of Shaver Hall (424 Fifth Avenue). The hall is named after Dorothy Shaver, president of Lord & Taylor and the first woman in the United States to lead a multimillion-dollar company.
The modern space, with poured concrete floors, exposed high ceilings, and a neutral black and white palette accented with wood, helps the unique design of each eatery’s backlit signage to stand out. In the center stands a four-sided bar called Layaway serving, among everything else, a Spritzes menu honoring Dorothy Shaver and other female fashion pioneers of her era. And I do love a spritz, of the Aperol kind.
As I do, I first took a look around to see all there was to see before methodically starting at the beginning with Norihana, a Japanese sushi bar. Their spicy octopus handroll is a must! Then I moved into one of the three restaurants, Tallow, to see the new steakhouse and enjoy picanha on bruschetta with chimichurri, a glass of sparkling white, and a wicked good dirty martini made by some handsome brothers behind the bar.
Moving back into the main space, and in order, I stopped in at the famous Taqueria Al Pastor, where the trompo was calling me. The recommendation for my first bite was a volcano: a crispy corn tortilla filled with al pastor, cheese, and all the fixings, plus a jamaica (hibiscus) agua fresca. Perfection! Shaver Hall marks its sixth location in NYC, with others in Brooklyn, Queens, and East Harlem.
Kysha Harris photo
At this point in the evening, I had 45 minutes remaining to get through nine more eateries and one restaurant. So I followed the energy of the room and shifted into collection mode, gathering takeout from nearly every remaining vendor.
Tallow Butcher Shop (steak sando)
Tonchinette (tonkotsu ramen, tebasaki wings, signature banana dessert)
Butter Chicken Social (butter chicken roll)
Zazu (chicken shawarma bowl)
Pastasole (fettuccine Alfredo)
2022-24 Michelin Bib Gourmand winner Chick Chick (sweet black pepper soy wings)
F&F Pizzeria (a collection of slices)
After sampling and grabbing some gelato perfection from Biddrina, cantaloupe and lemon, I ended the evening at British import, Pick & Cheese, and a glass of rosé. Think conveyor-belt sushi: color-coded, price-fixed plates, but make gorgeous cheeses served with curated pairings under glass cloches. It’s going to be a thing.
Shaver Hall, which opened on June 26, will be a welcome salve for New Yorkers and tourists alike, hungry and trapped in Midtown. Despite my long-held skepticism about food halls, it never once felt like a mall food court. That’s perhaps its greatest accomplishment — and high praise coming from me.
Thanks for reading and happy eating!
Kysha Harris is a chef, culinary producer, and food editor for the NY Amsterdam News. As a consultant and owner of SCHOP!, a personalized food service in NYC for over 23 years, she remains on the hunt for the city’s next great bite. Follow her on Instagram and on Facebook, @SCHOPnyc.
Questions, comments, requests, feedback, invitations! [Email us](mailto:AmNewsFOOD@SCHOPnyc.com?subject=While%20I%20was%20reading%20AmNewsFOOD…) at AmNewsFOOD@SCHOPnyc.com. Follow us on Instagram and Facebook, @NYAmNewsFOOD.
