Mira culurgiones pasta. Credit: Kysha Harris photo

I hope you all had a joyous July 4th weekend celebration. Yes, independence for the country, but not for ALL of its citizens. Otherwise we would have celebrated our collective 161st anniversary of independence on Saturday. Alas, we are all still here, moving the country forward (insert caveats here). Onward.

With the heatwave we experienced, I did not leave my home for three days, so I am extremely grateful to have quietly marked my own new independence the weekend prior, at one of the world’s great natural wonders and home to America’s first state park, Niagara Falls. The experience was awe-inspiring, humbling, and powerful. I will hold on to it forever.

My friend Jason invited me to join him on a drive to experience Niagara Falls. The answer was clearly “yes, thank you,” but it was also a “yes and … ” because my previous visit to nearby Buffalo revealed a bright culinary scene worth revisiting.

While serving on the James Beard Restaurant & Chef Committee representing the great state of New York in 2024, my committee partner, Adam Reiner, and I road tripped to Buffalo to try finalists, Southern Junction and Waxlight Bar a’ Vin. In part, we were under the profoundly knowledgeable guidance of former Buffalo News food editor Andrew Galarneau, who also took us on a walking tour of some of the best eateries in Buffalo. The visit reflected our mission as committee members to represent all of New York State beyond the five boroughs. We were blown away by the food and the hospitality of the city.

Kysha Harris photos

Ironically, the plan from Jason came after I received an invitation to try a new restaurant in Buffalo: “If plans ever take you up to Buffalo, give us a shout!” A shout, I did. After an eight-hour car ride (plenty of stops), a disco nap, and a quick change, we arrived at Mira (1081 Elmwood Avenue), a Mediterranean restaurant in Elmwood Village.

Mira grabbed me at first glance with its yellow-and-white striped canopies and then pulled me in for a big hug with its interior design, food, and hospitality. A hug from which I did not want to be released.

The space is warm and calming with earth tones of wood, clay, burnt orange, and putty. After settling into our rust velour banquette, we of course began with a cocktail. As a savory cocktail woman, I had their Horiatiki Martini of gin, tomato and cucumber water, Veso olive vermouth, and dill aquavit. Jason chose their Ruby Slipper of vodka, strawberry aperitif, lemon, elderflower, and ginger. Both were light, refined, … and deadly.

We were now primed to eat and executive chefs, partners, and husband-and-wife team Manny and Gina Ocasio were raring to feed us. From the mezze menu we had bluefin tuna crudo with mango and Calabrian chili oil, fried feta in brik with honey strawberries, and Sicilian pistachio; and our favorite mezze, asparagus fritti with Calabrian chili, aioli, and lemon. Perfectly battered and fried for a craveable bite.

From the Basque grill menu, I was captivated by the tender octopus with harissa butter, charred snap peas, and breadcrumbs. Not to be outdone, the pasta menu brought lumache (shaped like a snail) with sweet sausage, broccoli, chili, and truffled pecorino; and a carb-on-carb gift from the kitchen of culurgiones, a traditional Sardinian potato-stuffed pasta in a spicy tomato passata (the two leftover culurgiones were our pre-Falls-tour fortification).

We couldn’t let the last menu category, From The Coal Oven, go untouched with their outstanding tender, sweet, sticky lamb ribs with crispy bomba rice and garlic yogurt. We also couldn’t leave without Chef Gina blessing us with her transcendent strawberry tiramisu with malted milk mascarpone, chocolate ganache, espresso, rum, and her strawberry plum sorbetto, accompanied by perfect espresso martinis.

Mira is a fever dream of deliciousness that could only be outdone by one of the world’s great natural wonders. Make room in your travel annals for Buffalo and Niagara Falls. It’s written with love in mine.

Thanks for reading and happy eating!

Kysha Harris is a chef, culinary producer, and food editor for the NY Amsterdam News. As a consultant and owner of SCHOP!, a personalized food service in NYC for over 23 years, she remains on the hunt for the city’s next great bite. Follow her on Instagram and on Facebook, @SCHOPnyc.

Questions, comments, requests, feedback, invitations! [Email us](mailto:AmNewsFOOD@SCHOPnyc.com?subject=While%20I%20was%20reading%20AmNewsFOOD…) at AmNewsFOOD@SCHOPnyc.com. Follow us on Instagram and Facebook, @NYAmNewsFOOD.

Leave a comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *