This past Saturday there were so many events to attend and possibly cover in these pages. Harlem Week activations; BEM | books & more, the nation’s first Black food bookstore, held a Friends and Family day as they intentionally pivot their new space away from in-person bookselling to online sales, programming, and more; Black women-owned The Crabby Shack celebrated its 12th anniversary amid troubling news they might have to close due to ongoing economic difficulties for small businesses in Crown Heights. There was no shortage of places I could have been.
I chose Dinner in Harlem, a free bring-your-own-food gathering presented by Chef Lexis Gonzalez and the Blacklining Foundation, an organization working to counter redlining’s lasting effects on housing, health, education, economic opportunity, and community stability. They closed down 124th Street between Madison and Park Avenues, and lined the street with flower-strewn tables for guests to set up their feasts.
I first met Chef Lexis years ago as a young entrepreneur with a bakery on Fifth Avenue (ironically right around the corner from this event) during my tenure as associate producer for Harlem EatUp!. After her bakery closed, she continued creating opportunities through events, social media, and an appearance on Food Network’s “Chopped Sweets.” I knew Dinner in Harlem was a continuation of her growth.
When I arrived more than two hours after the event began, the block was sparse. Most tables were empty. Music played, performers had appeared, and free produce was available. Despite the time and the low turnout, Chef Lexis stayed on mission, galvanizing young volunteers and making those in attendance feel welcome.
I interviewed her about Blacklining Foundation, her connection to its work, and what she hopes Dinner in Harlem can become. I learned the adversity she faced in the early stages of planning this community event, the pride she has in her East Harlem neighborhood, and the support that fortified her to continue. “Neighbors used to be our family,” Chef Lexis said. “So many people have moved out, and we want to bring the community back together. With Dinner in Harlem, one long table — meet a new neighbor.”
After an hour, I had what I needed to write a story, but I wanted to see whether the afternoon could grow into the community Chef Lexis envisioned. Rather than leave, I sat down and observed. That decision became the story.
Chef Lexis’s friends soon arrived carrying freshly prepared food of canapés, jerk chicken, rice and kale salad, plus wines and other beverages. They covered the once-empty table where I was sitting with it, and generously invited others to eat. I talked with strangers, played games, and discovered that one guest was a therapist from my physical therapy facility. Familiar and new faces found one another around the same table on a street in Harlem. Mission accomplished!
Tables and chairs filled East 124th Street for the free, bring-your-own-food community gathering. 
Chef Lexis Gonzalez presents Lady Lexis Sweets at the inaugural Harlem EatUp! festival in 2015. 
Chef Lexis Gonzalez takes a moment at the table as Dinner in Harlem finds its rhythm. 
Guests unpack food to share at a communal table during Dinner in Harlem. 
Guests select from fresh produce made available during Dinner in Harlem. 
The perfect ending to a community gathering: banana pudding. 
Dinner in Harlem guests share food and conversation on East 124th Street. 
Tables ready on East 124th Street between Madison and Park Avenues for Dinner in Harlem. 
The Blacklining Foundation presented Dinner in Harlem under the theme “Breaking Bread. Building Community.”
And just as the gathering found its rhythm, police told Chef Lexis the street had to reopen at 6 p.m. — two hours earlier than her permit allowed and before other scheduled performers could appear. She weathered that disappointment as she had the lightly attended afternoon: by adapting. We began moving everything onto the sidewalk, where the gathering could continue after the street reopened.
The afternoon was imperfect, but community rarely arrives fully formed. Sometimes it begins with empty tables, shared food, and people willing to stay. Redlining created barriers around communities like Harlem. Blacklining Foundation and Chef Lexis are finding ways around them — and making room at the table for everyone.
Thanks for reading and happy eating!
Kysha Harris is a chef, culinary producer, and food editor for the NY Amsterdam News. As a consultant and owner of SCHOP!, a personalized food service in NYC for over 23 years, she remains on the hunt for the city’s next great bite. Follow her on Instagram and on Facebook, @SCHOPnyc.
Questions, comments, requests, feedback, invitations! [Email us](mailto:AmNewsFOOD@SCHOPnyc.com?subject=While%20I%20was%20reading%20AmNewsFOOD…) at AmNewsFOOD@SCHOPnyc.com. Follow us on Instagram and Facebook, @NYAmNewsFOOD.
