As a frequent traveler on Amtrak, I’ve passed through Wilmington, Delaware, more times than I can count. But unlike the smaller city’s larger and more cosmopolitan neighbor, Philadelphia, which I visit often, I’d never spent quality time in quieter Wilmington until recently. What I discovered on my weekend getaway from New York City was a fantastic free jazz festival, a well-curated art museum, tax-free dining and shopping, and adjacency to sprawling gardens and historic sights.
The Clifford Brown Jazz Festival
My last-minute jaunt to Wilmington in August was planned around the 39th annual
Clifford Brown Jazz Festival (cliffordbrownjazzfest.org), which my social media algorithm not so mysteriously put on my radar. Among the artists who performed at the seven-day jazz fest in downtown’s Rodney Square were Ledisi, Marcus Miller, Jonathan Butler, Terri Lyne Carrington and Sheila E., and The E-Train. The audience was eager and, even with severe weather delays, the vibe remained positive.
The completely free, outdoor festival is named after Wilmington native and influential jazz trumpeter Clifford Brown — who played with greats like Max Roach and Art Blakey before his untimely death in a car accident at age 25 — and has grown into the largest free jazz festival on the East Coast. Next year will mark the event’s 40th anniversary, and because of the friendly crowd and the award-winning array of jazz, R&B, funk, gospel, and world music talent the festival draws, it’s well worth the nearly three-hour trip from New York City.
The diversely curated Delaware Art Museum (delart.org) galleries feature works by prominent African American artists including Romare Bearden, Jacob Lawrence, Faith Ringgold, Elizabeth Catlett, Aaron Douglas, and James Van Der Zee; a large collection of Pre-Raphaelite art; and a spacious sculpture garden with a labyrinth. There’s also a cool gift shop and cafe serving light fare, plus a seasonal Thursday evening happy hour in the sculpture garden. General admission is free on Thursdays, 4–8 p.m., April–December, and free onsite parking is available.
Located in Kennett Square, Pennsylvania, the scenic Longwood Gardens (longwoodgardens.org) is about a 30-minute drive from downtown Wilmington. With over 10,000 plant varieties and attractions along the iconic 600-foot-long Flower Garden Walk, it’s easy to see why Longwood is considered one of the best botanical gardens in the country. Visitors can spend hours wandering through picturesque horticultural displays, dancing fountains, inviting conservatories, and serene woodlands and meadows.
More to do and see
Check out Bridge Art Gallery (bridgeartgallery.net), owned by entrepreneurial couple Christopher Mack and Cheryl Mack, and self-taught artist Eunice LaFate’s La Fate Gallery (https://lafategallery.com). To experience more of the city’s art and culture scene, mark your calendar for the first Friday events hosted by Art Loop Wilmington (cityfestwilm.com/art-loop-2025).
Explore the First State’s roots at the Delaware Historical Society (dehistory.org) and find more natural beauty at Nemours Estate (nemoursestate.org).
Where to eat
For a small city, Wilmington boasts a fair amount of Black-owned eateries. A few local favorites include: Oath 84 (oath84.com/home) for new American cuisine and craft cocktails, Keem’s Cuisine (keemscuisine.com) for elevated Southern entrees, and Greenbox Kitchen (greenboxkitchen.com) for smoothies and plant-based bites.
Where to stay
Staybridge Suites Wilmington Downtown (ihg.com/staybridge) is a budget-friendly and convenient option with a free daily breakfast buffet. Or splurge on a stay at the grand Hotel Du Pont (hoteldupont.com), overlooking Rodney Square and connected to the DE.CO Food Hall.
