Chef Marcus Samuelsson goes Back to Green, and from the stage to the table

I always enjoy seeing how chef-restaurateur Marcus Samuelsson continues to evolve his culinary hospitality brand through all channels at his disposal. So, when I received an invitation to a talk about his latest cookbook, “Back to Green: Rediscovering a World of Delicious, Healthy Eating,” I eagerly slipped into one of my green terry-cloth caftans and headed downtown to the Perelman Performing Arts Center for an evening of nourishment for the mind and body.

As guests entered the auditorium, we were gifted a book to peruse while listening to chef Samuelsson and Good Morning America co-anchor Michael Strahan talk about the origins of the cookbook and the four-year journey that brought it into our hands. Written in collaboration with Jamila Robinson, editor-in-chief of Bon Appétit and Epicurious, “Back to Green” celebrates nourishing ingredients, global food traditions and the people who preserve them.

The conversation traveled through Marcus’ family, his children, his cooking, and his travels. He recalled his mother checking in during the punishing early years of his career, telling him he couldn’t simply come home. It was her tough love and encouragement that helped keep him moving forward.

One exchange especially stayed with me. When asked about disagreements with Jamila, Samuelsson said the friction wasn’t over which recipes belonged in the book, but rather what to call them. Why give a Haitian dish a European name rather than honor its own identity? A recipe carries a culture with it.

Marcus also reflected on simple, fresh, nutrient-rich meals he has experienced in less affluent communities around the world, contrasting them with the limited access to fresh, nourishing food in many underserved American neighborhoods. He spoke about getting out of the way and learning from cooks who know their traditions best, like Chef Lee Anne Wong, whose Hawaiian recipes appear alongside contributions from other chefs representing their respective cultures. The message was clear: good food begins with respect for ingredients and expertise.

Afterward, Marcus patiently signed the books we’d been given for a long line of guests. I also had Jamila sign mine and enjoyed catching up with her. Then I joined food-industry colleagues downstairs at Metropolis by Marcus Samuelsson for a dinner that carried the conversation right onto the plate.

After my requisite dirty vodka martini with olives, a cocktail onion, and a lemon twist, we ordered the two Back to Green dishes from the special menu. They were glorious. A crab tostada with pickled mango, avocado, and tomatillo ate like a light, bright, meaty moment. The hamachi crudo dressed with tamarind, sesame, avocado, and pickled ginger sang.

The regular menu had plenty to say, too. Hand-cut tuna tartare tucked into blanched collard greens topped with crispy shallots made me swoon. Pretzels crowned with gravlax felt like a playful New York tribute. Salt cod fritters were hot, light, crisp, and not at all greasy.

Then came the crispy snapper, beautifully seasoned, with a pickled garnish, aromatic curry, and coconut rice. I would go back for that dish alone. The Harlem Express — fried chicken over creamy, substantial grits with Chinese broccoli, and a sweet-tangy sauce — was another standout for the table.

It was the sort of evening that reminded me why I loved following a chef’s journey: conversation, community, and food that says something about who they are, where they come from, and what matters to them.

Bravo chef!

Thanks for reading and happy eating!

Kysha Harris is a chef, culinary producer, and food editor for the NY Amsterdam News. As a consultant and owner of SCHOP!, a personalized food service in NYC for over 23 years, she remains on the hunt for the city’s next great bite. Follow her on Instagram and on Facebook, @SCHOPnyc

Questions, comments, requests, feedback, invitations! Email us at AmNewsFOOD@SCHOPnyc.com. Follow us on Instagram and Facebook, @NYAmNewsFOOD