Designer Stephen Burrows was recently honored by the Fashion & Arts Xchange Group (FAX) at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) Morris W. & Haft Auditorium, to celebrate the historic 50th anniversary of the “Battle of Versailles, “ which occurred on November 28, 1973.
Burrows, now 80 years old, was the only Black designer in the famous Versailles group of designers, and he’s the last living designer of the group. He was honored for his remarkable career and contributions to the world of fashion.
Founded by Gwen Sergeant, the Fashion & Arts Xchange Group (FAX) is a nonprofit (501(c)3) organization that creates opportunities for Black and brown students and professionals in the business of fashion.
Burrows is a genius. He appeared on the fashion scene with several Black designers in the late 1960s. He graduated from FIT in 1967, and first arrived at Bendel (East 57th Street, New York City) in the early 1970s. His knits were hits right away.
“They are particularly for the city and particularly for this city,” said Geraldine Stutz, owner of Bendel back in 1977, about Burrows’s spring line.
Burrows won three Coty Awards. In the Palace of Versailles, his American collection was a historic success.
“It was never a battle, but a faceoff between American and French designers,” explained Burrows. Eleanor Lambert, fashion publicist, organized the international fashion revelation at The Versailles Palace in France for American and French designers to showcase their designs. In addition to Burrows, the American designers included Anne Klein, Bill Blass. Halston, and Oscar de la Renta. The top American models included Alva Chinn, Norma Jean Darden, Beth Ann Hardison, Billie Blaire, Barbra Jackson, China Machado, Pat Cleveland, Ramona Sanders, and Charlene Dash.
In comparison to the professional shows of French designers, the American ateliers presented their collections simply with beautiful, diverse models and the latest soundtrack of music. Models strutted on the runway and struck a pose. Versailles paved the way for Black models in the 1980s in Europe.
“After Stephen Burrows’s show, the audience erupted,” said Darden. “Models didn’t wear underwear while modeling Stephen’s slinky styles. He didn’t want any bra and panty lines to show,” recalled Chinn.
Burrows is known for his impeccable tailoring and styling abilities, color-block basics, slinky chiffons, and sexy knits with contrast-color lettuce edges and threads. He was one of the first Black designers to have a boutique in a store. The rich and famous Studio 54 crowd wore his clothes.
“In the ’70s, while at Henri Bendel, Stephen Burrows presented the first street fashion show—57th Street from 5th to 6th Avenue was closed. It was fabulous,” recalled Smaltz. Smaltz also noted that “Stephen B, a perfume created by Stephen Burrows, was introduced by Max Factor and sold at Lord & Taylor.”
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What about skirt length? “It depends on the wearer,” Burrow replied. “A woman should wear a length that makes her feel pretty.”“
Over the years, Burrows created costume designs for the off-Broadway production of Vy Higginson’s “Mama I Want to Sing,” and his designs were featured in a major exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.
His designs are still strong sellers today, as he collaborates with retailers like Target. Former First Lady Michelle Obama wore one of his green outfits while in the White House.
The program included an enlightening panel discussion with Burrows and Versailles models Chinn, Darden, Smaltz, Nicole Fischelis, and Freddie Leiba. Harriette Cole was the moderator. A video featured Burrows, Higgenson, Veronica Jones, panelists, designer Jeffrey Banks, and Burrows’s family members.
Guest speakers included Joyce F. Brown, president of FIT; Sargent, Carly Cushnie, and Constance White. Fern Mallis, G. Keith Alexander, Walter Greene, and other fashion notables were in the audience.At the end of the event, Darden of Spoon Bread Restaurant and Chinn were whisked away to another Battle of Versailles celebration that evening at the Parson’s New School of Design.